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Happy Holi

Yesterday was Holi, festival of colors. It celebrates spring and the slaying of a great daemon.

These pictures make it look amazing. Which it is. But what they don't tell is that it is also wayyyy overwhelming. I had fair warning and contemplated staying in for the day, but of course decided I wanted to experience it. So I ventured out mid morning wearing the white shirt I bought for the occasion. Within 3 minutes I had been doused with water, smacked in the face with colored pigments, and squirted with more paint.

All day the kids and the men run around with bags of bright colored powders and let me tell you they go straight for the face. Unabashedly. It surprised me how forward they were. Not trying to be polite or to make sure it didn't go in my mouth or anything. At first I felt self conscious, like: what do I even look like right now?! But then I told myself: Julia, you are a painting. And I started to like it.

I think it is good luck to touch a women on Holi and later I realized that I had not seen one Indian woman out and about. I gave out too many hugs and so many people smeared me with this stuff that I was absolutely caked.

I felt grateful for a cleansing dip in the Ganga and so relieved to get home in the afternoon. Took a hot shower and got myself grounded again with hot soup and chapatis on the porch.

Ganga Aarti

On Friday I went with my friend Joni to Har-ki-Pairi (The Footstep of God) in Haridwar where It is told that Vishnu dropped heavenly nectar and left behind a footprint. Every night people gather there for Ganga Aarti, prayer to the Ganges river. Every night! How beautiful to be surrounded by a culture of belief, of faith, of celebration.

Many people gathered on steps built on the side of the river. The Ganga flows swiftly here. Powerfully. There are chains for bathers to hold on to so as not to be swept away by the river's strong hands while taking a dip (which happens quite often unfortunately). Boys sold leaf boats of roses, marigolds, candles, and incense to carry prayers and wishes over the water. I bought one of course, a biggish one which I cradled in my arms as I waited for the sun to set.

Just when darkness settled in big torches were lit at the temple across the water. Bells clanged and songs of prayer sounded. I prayed in my own words. O mother Ganga carry away sorrow and bring abundant gifts. Thank you for your liveliness, your nourishment, your grace...

Around the Jhulas

in Ram Jhula

dancing Shiva

my favorite house to walk by

these flowers are red

(rough) morning

the ice cream man. check it out! you can have a sundae in a glass dish on the street served from a cart on wheels

snack walla

this is why your don't carry food on the bridge! i've been lucky so far but i've witnessed quite a few monkey heists. once a lady even grabbed me and shoved me in between her and the monkeys to save her bag of grapes!!

riverside

sunset bathers one

sunset bathers two

trash + the river

tuctuc at night

fifteen years old

dinner company

I passed by this man sculpting Kali on a wall near where I stay. It is INCREDIBLE! He didn't speak english but I stuck around awhile saying "wow" so much that I think he's probably learned that word. I passed by again later and got to see his progress.

nice shapes

my room