My first overnight train adventure from Haridwar (just outside Rishikesh) to Varanasi was a success! I traveled on sleeper class which is the lowest class because it was the only ticket I could get. People warned me about all of the terrible things that could happen: unrelenting stares, harassment, theft, drugged food, etc. So I took some precautions (like not snapping a bunch of photos as I normally would) but really I found that I felt quite safe. The only real mishap was when I got on the wrong car with all my stuff only to have to lug it off again to find the right one (not so bad but a bit of an ordeal when you consider how much crap I'm carrying).
Somehow I ended up in a compartment of all women (thanks Universe!!). I stuffed all my bags under the lower seat and when the train got going I folded up the middle bunk and got out my little sheet and pillow and had a decent sleep.
The train left around 10:30pm and I rode all night and most of the next day. Every half hour or so the train stopped to let people on and off. Lots of times the station would just be this tiny platform in the middle o' nowhere and there are no announcements about where you are or anything. I worried myself for a bit that I would miss my stop. But when I asked people they were glad to let me know when we would reach Varanasi.
A few people spoke some English, most did not. One man who got on towards the end of the ride was thrilled to see me reading the Mahabarata (a great Indian epic) and even invited me to his village (I declined). Around 4pm I finally got off the train with the help of a sweet guy who helped my carry my luggage all the way to the rickshaw stand. Found a driver to take me to my guesthouse and was plunged into Varanasi...
Somehow I ended up in a compartment of all women (thanks Universe!!). I stuffed all my bags under the lower seat and when the train got going I folded up the middle bunk and got out my little sheet and pillow and had a decent sleep.
The train left around 10:30pm and I rode all night and most of the next day. Every half hour or so the train stopped to let people on and off. Lots of times the station would just be this tiny platform in the middle o' nowhere and there are no announcements about where you are or anything. I worried myself for a bit that I would miss my stop. But when I asked people they were glad to let me know when we would reach Varanasi.
A few people spoke some English, most did not. One man who got on towards the end of the ride was thrilled to see me reading the Mahabarata (a great Indian epic) and even invited me to his village (I declined). Around 4pm I finally got off the train with the help of a sweet guy who helped my carry my luggage all the way to the rickshaw stand. Found a driver to take me to my guesthouse and was plunged into Varanasi...
I'm so glad it went well! Love, Mom
ReplyDeleteReminds me of riding the train thru La Barraca de Cobre en Mexico! You are such a smart traveler and writer, you should write a book! ¡Cuidate mucho!
ReplyDeleteThis reminds me of a train trip to Italy in the late 80's. Joanne and I were also told of similar dangers. We had a small compartment with 2 other girls, none of us could sleep for long worrying about the dangers. We finally got over our fears and slept. We arrived in Florence in the wee hours of the morning, no Italian money, thankfully one of the hotels let us call Kirk on their phone. Just another adventure. You are so brave and smart!! Love, Liz
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